Building a Hoop Coop, How to construct an inexpensive open bottom poultry pen.

Click images to view larger

     We have built two hoop coops so far.  I like the concept due to it's low cost and mobility, though we do need to add protection for the winter months.  Last winter we used straw bale walls and a large tarp to get through the winter.  Eventually we plan to build a permanent coop, but having a totally mobile setup allows us to figure out the best location for that coop.  It also gives us some more time to learn what we are doing and what we want in a fixed coop.  The chickens seem to like them quite well, and so far they have been sufficient to protect our flock.  I prefer the open bottom design to any type of floor, not only is it cheaper and easier to make; it allows for pasturing or deep litter method use.

     The basic concept is pretty simple, two cattle panels arched over a 2x4 frame.  There are, however, a ton of options in the details of how to put them together.  Our first hoop coop (above right), was built to be light and movable.  We used untreated lumber and sealed it with a homemade paste of beeswax and mineral oil.  The front and back panels are hog panels and it features flip down wheels and a trailer hitch allowing one person to easily move it.  Our second hoop coop (above left) is built for durability.  It is made from treated lumber and has no wheels, so it takes at least three people to move.  The front and back panels are cattle panels, which are taller and require less additional support.  The only downside of this is that due to the curve in the top, the front panels ended up spaced farther apart requiring a slightly wider door. 

     There are many other differences, but this post will be mainly focused on how to build the second version. It is not intended to be the "end all be all" of hoop coop construction, as there are numerous design options and many other great versions out on the web.  My hope is that this post can serve as a guide that allows a beginner to get the job done.

Tools Needed:

Cross cut saw

Metal saw

Drill/driver

Hammer

Snips

Heavy duty pliers  

Hog ring pliers
Framing square

Materials:

(2) 10' 2x4
(3) 8' 2x4
(2) 8' 1x4
(4) 8' 2x2
(3) Cattle panels
80' of 36" Poultry netting
48" x 5'   ¼" hardware cloth
U shaped fence nails
2" wood screws
2 1/2" wood screws
Hog rings
Baling wire
1 set medium hinges
1 set small hinges
2 latches
Tarps (16' x 12' & 8' x 10' or close sizes)

Step 1:  Build the Base

Cut 2 of the 2x4s at 8' 3" and 2 at 10'.  Screw together into a rectangle with the 10' sides overlapping the shorter ones as shown below.  Use 2 of the 2½" screws per connection.

Be sure that the base is square before step 2.  Check for squareness by measuring the diagonals, when both diagonals match, you will have a perfect square.

Step 2:  Add the corner braces

Cut the 1x4 into 4 corner braces with 45° angels measuring 18" on the long side. 

Trace the outline of the brace on the 4 corners.  Cut 3/4" deep along the two lines, then make several more cuts inside them.  Use a sharp chisel to remove the rest of the material creating an angled recess to receive the brace flush with the top of the 2x4.

     Install the corner braces with 3 of the 2" screws on each connection.  Pre-drill to avoid splitting the brace.

Step 3:  Install the cattle panels

     Lay the two cattle panels side by side with the short side of the panels on the short side of the frame.  center on the 2x4 and attach one side using u shaped fence staples.

U shaped fence staple

Attach the panels on one side, let the other side hang over.

center the panel on both 2x4's and attach using u shaped staples.

      Bend the panels one at a time up into an arch and attach the other side the same way.  (it is a good idea to have someone to help hold the panel in place for this step)

     Once both panels are up, use the hog rings to tie them together.  Alternately you can use baling wire. 

Hog ring and pliers

Step 4:  Attach the back panel

     Lay the third panel across the back 2x4 with one corner lined up with the arched panels and attach to the base using fence staples.

     One the bottom is securely attached, stand the panel up and use hog rings or wire to hold it in place.  Use a metal saw to cut the excess off, leaving a few inches of panel wire overhanging the arch.  Where a corner meets the arch, simply cut it off flush.

Using heavy duty pliers or channel locks, fold over the excess wire creating a secure connection.  Be careful not to pull in on the arch while doing this and change it's shape.  It takes considerable hand strength for this part.

     Take care that the sharp ends are tucked back were they can't catch you or your chickens.

Step 5:  Attach the front panels

Use the remaining cutoff from the back panel for the two front panels.  Count the spaces to determine where the center will be and create to equal length panels with straight ends toward the middle where your door will be.  Attach in the same way as the back panel.

Step 6:  Build door frame

put a 2x4 vertically along the inside of one front panel and mark the top at an angle where it meets the arch.  Cut along the mark so the 2x4 fits under the arch.  Do this for both sides.  Be sure to keep the 2x4 square with the frame, if you are on a level surface then a level works well, otherwise use a framing square.

Attach the bottom of the door frame by "toe nailing" or driving screws at an angle into the bottom 2x4.  Use 2 of the 2 ½" wood screws.  Then check for squareness and attach the top to the arch using the fence staples.

     Do this on both sides, making sure that the width at the bottom of the frame is consistent with the top of the frame.  Then cut the frame top to fit and "toe screw" into place.  I don't give exact measurements for these steps.  As long as it is square it will be fine, you can build the door to fit the opening you end up with.  

     The last step of the door frame is to install the stop.  Cut a 1x4 to fit from the bottom 2x4 to the top of the door frame and install ½ way over the inside on one side of the door frame.  I did this on the right side of the frame, but it needs to be opposite of the hinge side, which ever side you want that to be.  Attach the stop using 2" wood screws.

Frame top in place

Door stop in place

Inside view of the door stop.

 Step 7: Build the door

     The images below shows the dimensions of our door and are for example only.  Be sure to make your door fit the opening you end up with.  Measure the inside dimensions of your door frame, then subtract ½" from each direction to allow for door operation.  This should be the outside dimensions of your finished door.  

     Door Step 1:  cut 2 2x2s to the height of door frame opening minus ½"

     Door Step 2:  Cut 3 2x2s to the width of the door frame minus 3½"  Attach one to the top, one to the bottom, and one 12" above the bottom as shown below.  All of the connections for this frame are made using 1 2½" wood screw.  Pre drill to avoid splitting the 2x2s.

     Door Step 3:  Cut 2 2x2s at 12" and attach them 8" apart in the center of the bottom opening in the door frame.  (Note: This creates an 8" wide by 12" tall chicken door frame in the middle of the big door.  Perfect for chickens or ducks.  If you plan to keep geese or turkeys, you need to make a bigger door.)

     Door Step 4:  Cut a 2x2 for diagonal brace.  This will have an angle on both ends and extend from the hinge side down to keep the door from sagging.  Be sure the door frame is square, lay the 2x2 on top in position, and you can trace the angle cuts needed.

     Door Step 5:  Create the small chicken door.  The door should measure 11 3/4" x 7 3/4" to fit in the small frame.  I made mine by ripping left over pieces of 1x4 in half and screwing them together into a rectangle.  Alternately a solid board or piece of plywood could serve as a chicken door. 

     Door Step 6:  Cover door with 1/4" hardware cloth.  Attach using staples or pan head screws.  Leave the 12" x 8" chicken door frame open.  

     Door Step 7:  Attach chicken door using small hinges and install latch.

I use hook and eye latches with a spring clip to prevent easy opening by raccoons or other predators.  (The above pic is actually from our brooder build, so don't expect it to make sense for this project)

     Door Step 8:  Hang door in frame using Medium hinges and install latch.

Use the remaining hardware cloth to close the space between the door frame and the top of the arch.

Step 8:  Cover the outside with poultry netting

     Cover the front and back walls with poultry netting, folding the excess over the sides and around the cattle panels.  Then cover the arch by stapling the end to the side 2x4 and unrolling over the arch.  It will take three courses of 36" netting to cover the top.  Use lots of small loops of baling wire to attach the netting to the cattle panels.  Take care not to leave sharp points of wire exposed.

Step 9:  Add the Tarps

     This part requires a bit of creativity as there does not seem to be a "best way"  We used a combination of small bungee cords, screws, rope to get the job done.  Remember that chickens need a lot of ventilation, so don't close it up too tight, but make sure they will have shade throughout the day.  Be careful not to create pocket that will trap water, or loose flaps that will catch the wind.

Options:

Back Brace: Often people put a vertical brace on the back wall of a hoop coop to help support the arch.  With the panels securely wired together, I didn't feel this was necessary but may be needed in areas with significant snowfall.

Roost: Chickens need some kind of roost.  We used a 10' 2x4 with one side rounded off with a belt sander.  It was cut to fit just longer than the coop so it would sit snugly in the corner of the squares on the front and back cattle panels and secured with baling wire.  This provides enough space for about 20 birds to roost. (This is way too many birds to be stuck in such a small space, but works alright if they have daily yard access.)

This pic is from our first hoop coop, but you get the idea.

Nest boxes:  We use homemade wooden nest boxes.  They could be attached to the back panel for a mobile setup.

Predator Skirt:  To prevent protect the coop from predators that can dig under the sides, put 2' hardware cloth around the outside.  Fold it in half with a 90° bend so that it extends 1' up the side and 1' out around the coop.  The predators will tend to try to dig in the corner and get discouraged, not being smart enough to back up a foot and get under it.  We did this on our first (mobile) coop but not the new one that we keep inside fencing.  So far we have not had an issue either way. (knock on wood)

Wheels and Hitch:  For our first hoop coop, I came up with this pop up wheel assembly and a custom hitch for the front.  We use a trailer dolly which allows one person to easily move it through short grass. 

The wheel assemblies go on the front of the hoop coop and can be levered upright and pinned in place for moving or lay down so the frame sits flat on the ground.

I am really proud of this custom hitch.  It is the first functional thing I have made with a welder.

     So that's it.  I hope you find this useful, but please remember that there are a lot of other designs out there and a lot of options and room to get creative on your build.  If you do use this guide, please leave a comment or drop me an email at wholeviewfarm@gmail.com to let me know how it goes, especially if you find any errors or omissions in this post.

Update 11/27/13:

Click here to see a post about a different take on the hoop coop that a friend of ours built.

 

DIY Outdoor Chicken Brooder / Broody Hen Box

 Note: This is an original design, and is still in the process of being tested.  Please read the notes at the end before committing to building this.

     I just finished building this brooder tractor for our new baby chicks.  It is 6' x 2' with an open bottom to allow them to forage.  With 12 square feet of interior space it can hold up to 24 young birds for their first 3 weeks, after which they will need larger accommodations.  It can hold a smaller number of birds for longer, but care needs to be taken as a couple of birds won't be able to huddle and maintain their heat well enough.  I also envision using it for a broody hen with a clutch.  For that I would keep it stationary and add bedding and clean as needed.  I added a small door on the front so she can take her babies out foraging.  The entire top opens as two large doors to allow easy access.  A 2x4 brace across the center works well as a place to hang the waterer.  Two handles extend from the front.  Moving the unit by the handles is made easier by the rounded corners on the back of the bottom rails.  The plywood lid has a slight pitch to shed water since it acts as a roof over the enclosed section.  An incandescent light fixture provides heat inside the enclosure.  We cover the entire thing with a tarp if it get's too cold or wet out, and put down a layer of dry wood chips if the ground gets too moist. 

Tools Needed:

Tape Measure

Pencil

Square

Horses

Saw (For  cross cutting lumber and for ripping plywood)

Drill / Driver

Tin Snips (For cutting hardware cloth)

Belt Sander, plane, or draw knife (for shaping handles)
Belt Sander, jig saw, or coping saw (for rounding back of bottom rails)

Palm sander or sanding block (recommended for removing splinters and improving appearance)

A pneumatic staple gun is a nice option for attaching the walls and screen but screws work just as well.

Shopping List:

(Use this list to purchase materials new)

Prices are given for example only and are our current local prices for these items.

Qty     Type                                                                                     Price each                           Total
(10)        2x2" x8'                                                                                  $1.42                           $14.20
(3)          2x4" x 8'                                                                                 $2.98                            $8.94
(2)          4'x8' x 3/8" plywood                                                             $14.37                          $28.74
(56)        2½" Wood Screws                                                                                    Box of 100 $5.19

(44)        1¼" Wood Screws (or staples to secure plywood)                                   Box of 100 $3.28
(75) short (1" or so) flat head screws or staples to secure screen                           Box of 100 $2.37

(3) latches                                                                                            $1.79                              $5.37
(6) small hinges with screws                                                               $1.48                              $8.88
1/4" Hardware Cloth  12' long                                                                                25' Roll     $16.49
2' piece of light chain                                                                                                                   $.99
                                                                                                                                             __________
                                                                  Total for all new materials as pictured above        $94.45

Note: 

In the pic below, you can see how close I was to getting all of the pieces out of a single sheet of plywood.  Making the length of the side walls, the lid, or the width of the entire unit smaller by a couple of inches are all adjustments that would make it possible to eliminate the need for a second sheet of plywood.  Since I built mine before realizing this, and I am not terribly motivated to re-draw and re-work all the pics and lists, I am going to publish it as is.  If there is enough interest I can work up a slightly less expensive version.

The pieces are shown in grey, tan is scrap, and red is the overlap that prevents the pieces from coming out of 1 sheet. 

oops.  Now you gotta buy two whole sheets of plywood so you can cut one little piece out of one of them.  1/2 sheets are available, but they are only a couple of dollars cheaper than the whole ones.

Cut List:

(Use this list if scrounging/salvaging materials or to cut the purchased list)

Qty    Type

(2)     2x2" x 6' 6"     Bottom Rails
(5)     2x4" x 2'         Bottom Ends, Top Ends, & Top Bar
(1)     2x2  x 2'         Door frame Top
(2)     2x2  x 8'         Top Rails
(6)     2x4 x 21"       Corner Posts, Short wall stop, & Long wall Stop

(1)     2x2 x 21"       Side Cleat
(1)     2x2 x 1'          Door Jamb
(4)     2x2 x 2' 3"     Top Door Sweeps & Screen Lid Sides
(1)    2x2  x 2' 7¼"  Top Door Stop
(4)    2x2  x 2' 10½" Lid Frame
(2)    2x4  x 2' 7"     Screen Lid End

(6)  3/8" plywood pieces as shown below (click to view larger)

Short Side Wall:  2' tall, 2' across top, 2' 4½" across bottom

Front Wall:  1' 9" Tall, 2' 2½" across top with cut out 1' up and 9½" over

Back Wall: 2'3"x1'9"

Lid:  3' 1½" x 2' 10½" 

Long Side Wall:  2' tall, 3' 1½" across top, 3' 6" across bottom

Chicken Door:  11 7/8"x7 7/8"

Step 1:  Assemble the bottom frame

Round off back corners of the (2) bottom rails with a belt sander, jig saw, or coping saw to allow the unit to slide more easily when assembled.  Then assemble the bottom frame as shown below. 

Attach the Bottom Rails (2x2x6'6") to the Bottom Ends (2x4x2') The Front End is flush, the Back end is 6" in from the rounded corner. 

 Use (2) 2½" screws per connection.  Be sure to keep the screws offset toward the center on both ends, as shown below, to avoid hitting the screws that secure the corners in step 2.  Pre-drill the 2x2 to avoid splitting.

Step 2:  Attach the 4 corner posts

Attach the (4) Corner Posts (2x2x21") to the Bottom frame assembly using (1) 2½" screw per connection as shown below.  Pre-drill these connections.

Step 3:  Assemble the Top Frame

Attach the (2) Top Rails (2x2x8') to the (2) Top Ends (2x4x2') as shown below.  Use (2) 2½" screws to secure each side of the Back end flush with the rails.  The screws should be offset towards the center as in step 1.

Use (1) 2½" screws to attach each side of the Front End.  It is positioned 5' 10½" from the back end and installed sideways to hang down below the frame as shown below.

I rounded the handles with a belt sander before assembling the top frame.

Step 4:  Connect the top and bottom frames.

Use (4) 2½" screws to attach the Top Frame to the (4) Corner Posts as shown below.

Screw placement detail

Step 5:  Attach the Short Side Stop and the Side Cleat

Attach the Short Side Cleat (2x4x21")  1' 10½" from the back corner as shown below.  The Side Cleat (2x2x21") is attached the same distance on the other side.  Use (1) 2 ½" screw for each of the (4) connections.

Step 6:  Attach the Top Bar

Install the Top Bar (2x4x2') 2' 11½" from the back of the unit using (2) 2½" screws on each side as shown below.

Step 7:  Attach the Long Side Stop

Install the Long Side Stop (2x4x21") 2' 11½" from the back of the unit (flush with Top Bar) as shown below.  Use (1) 2½" screw on each end, centered to avoid hitting the Top Bar screws.

Step 8:  Assemble Door Frame

Attach the Door Jamb (2x2x1') to the Door Frame Top (2x2x2').  It is installed 8" from the side in a T shape as shown below.  Use (1) 2½" screw for this connection.

Step 9:  Install Door Frame

Install the Door Frame in the front end as shown below.  Use (1) 2½"screw for each of the (3) connections.

Step 10:  Install the first Top Door Sweep

Attach the Top Door Sweep (2x2x2'3") 1 5/8" from the Back end using (3) 2½" screws as shown below.

Step 11:  Install Top Door Stop

Attach the Top Door Stop (2x2x2' 7¼") to the Top Rail on the Short side using (3) 2½" screws as shown below.

Step 12:  Install other Top Door Sweep

Attach the other Top Door Sweep (2x2x2'3") tight against the Top Door Stop using (2) 2½" screws as shown below.  To keep it square, measure the distance of the stop (2' 7¼") on the back rail

The completed frame.

 

Note:

 Because I prefer not to use treated wood it is necessary to use a preservative to protect the pine from rot and make it a less hospitable home to mites.  For this project I used a homemade past created with 5 parts food grade mineral oil and 1 part beeswax.  The ingredients are gently heated using a double boiler until blended.  Monitor closely at all times under heat since both ingredients can be flammable.  The mixture is then cooled to room temp, then applied to the wood with a rag. 

I applied my mixture to the completed frame, then treated each piece of plywood before attaching.

Step 13:  Install Front Wall

 Install the Front Wall to the Short Wall Stop and the Side Cleat using (5) 1¼" screws as shown below.  When attaching plywood to framing, you do not need to pre-drill.

Step 14:  Install Long Side Wall

Attach the Long Side Wall using (10) 1¼" screws as shown below.

Step 15:  Install Short Side Wall

Attach the Short Side Wall using (10) 1¼" screws as shown below.

Step 16:  Install the Back Wall

Attach the Back Wall (1'9"x2'3"x 3/8" ply) to the inside of the back corners using (6) 1¼" screws as shown below.

Step 17:  Attach screen to the Outside of the brooder.  

Attach the ¼" Hardware Cloth to the brooder using either pan head screws or a pneumatic stapler.  Wrap the 3 open sides with a single piece of screen, cutting out for the chicken door and handles on the front side, folding it around the corners, and then cutting to length.

shown here a couple of steps ahead with screen as well as with the lid and the screen top frame attached.

Step 18:  Build the Lid Frame

Attach (2) Lid Frame pieces to the other (2) Lid Frame Pieces to form a large H as shown below.  The inner pieces are set in 3" from the ends of the other pieces.  Use (1) 2½" screw for each of the (4) connections.

Step 19:  Attach Lid Top to Lid Frame.

Connect the Lid Top (3' 1½"x2' 10½" x 3/8" ply) to the Lid Frame using (10) 1¼"screws.

Step 20:  Attach the Lid

Install the Lid to the Brooder as shown below using 2 hinges and the appropriate screws.

The hinges for the screen top (Left) are installed flat, the hinges for the wooden top (right) are installed at 90°

Step 21:  Build Screen Top

Attach (2) Screen lid Ends (2x4x2'7") to (2) Screen Lid Sides (2x2x2'3") to form a square with the 2x2s covering the ends of the 2x4s.  Use (2) 2½"screws for each of the (4) connections as shown below. 

 Cover with ¼" Hardware Cloth.

Step 22:  Install Screen Top 

Attach Screen Top using (2) hinges with appropriate screws.

Step 23:  Install Chicken Door

Attach Chicken Door using (2) small hinges with appropriate screws.

Step 24:  Install the latches and the chain.

I use eye and hook latches with a spring mechanism that prevents it from being easily opened.

The chain is installed using (2) 1¼" screws as shown below to keep the screen door from opening too far.

If needed you can install an incandescent light or other heat source inside the brooder.  Be sure to follow your local electrical codes.  A hook in the Top Bar is a great place to hang a waterer from.

     So that's pretty much it.  We used a similar type thing to brood our original flock with great success, but that was in July and August, so we will have to wait and see how they fare in the cooler, wetter Wisconsin Spring weather.  We cover the brooder with a tarp in heavy rains, but otherwise it provides all the protection the chicks need.  We move them to fresh lawn daily.  For the first couple of moves, it is a good idea to have someone watch so they don't get their toes caught.  Also, talk to your birds when you are going to move them, so they get to know what to expect.  Personally I think it is much better for the birds to be outside right away.  To expose them to the fresh air, forge opportunities, and potential pathogens as soon as possible so they can develop on the right track.

Happy flockstering, and please let me know what you think of the design.

Update 5/19/13:

Things I want to change about the design so far:

1. Adjust size so that it can be built out of 1 sheet of plywood.

2.  Put the handles on the opposite side.  All the babies run away from us when we open it up to move.  This puts them in the brooder where we can't see them and they tend to get their toes run over.  So we end up moving it by pushing the brooder wall which scares the babies out into the yard where we can see them.  Makes me wonder if the handles are necessary at all.

3.  Add a small door that babies can fit through but adult chickens can't for introducing young birds into the flock (A thought I had after reading this article on the Natural Chicken Keeping Blog.

Update 6/24/13:  

The adult birds don't show any signs of wanting to use it in any way except perching on the handles.  I think if we want a broody hen to use it, we would have to lock her in there.  I worry that it is too hot and there is not enough ventilation for that though.  Worked great as a brooder, but I am re-thinking the broody hen application.

I guess from this angle, it doesn't look too inviting.