Expanding Zone 1 - New Hugelkultur Bed

     One of the big things I am changing since finding out about permaculture, is to move our vegetable gardens closer to the kitchen.  It just makes sense, and I have already experienced the difference in how much more likely we are to use the garden in our cooking when it is close at hand.  In permaculture design, a property is divided up into zones based on how often an area needs to be accessed.  The living area is zone 0, and the gardens and other features that need to be accessed daily are nearby in zone 1.  There is an excellent explanation of zones on TC Permaculture, check it out if you want to understand the concept better.  Normally chickens are kept in zone 1, but since we are on just 1 acre, I am considering the food forest / chicken paddock area to be our zone 2.

     Last fall, we did our hugelkultur in a swale project just off of the porch (above).  This created a large bed that will be planted with a poly-culture of vegetables, herbs, and flowers along with some support species.  This Spring we were able to expand that to the other side of the sidewalk by creating a long hugelkultur all along the large rocks that separate the yard from the driveway (below).  If you are not familiar with hugelkultur, check out Paul Wheaton's awesome article on richsoil.com. 

     In the pic above you can see that I started out with 3 square foot gardens up close to the house.  Although they worked out ok, we will eventually transition that area into keyhole beds for their more interesting shape and increased edge space.  We are getting the layout started by creating a bed all along the rocks, where we can take advantage of the thermal mass of the rocks regulating the temeratures and the increased solar gain reflecting off the light colored gravel driveway to the South.

4/13/13

We started by cutting a line about 2' off the rocks and removing the sod along the one side.

4/13/13

4/13/13

     This was one of those rare days when we are both home and the weather is not too bad and we are able to work on the yard together.  Happy stuff!

This super high tech and complicated piece of equipment is called an A Frame Level.  Very effective for leveling a trench and it only took me about 10 minutes to build it.

The indicator is a snow stake duct taped to a washer and hanging on a screw.  Works pretty well, though it is tough to read if the wind is bad.

4/16/13

We left an island of undisturbed soil at the corner and trenched around the inside of it, then continued on toward the garage.

4/16/13

There was a height difference of almost 3' from one end of our trench to the other.  Once we got the garage side (above) down to where it would catch water instead of spilling onto the driveway, we started leveling our way back uphill.

4/16/13

Rather than dig out the entire side, we cut a narrower trench level with the other side so that water captured off the slope will hydrate the uphill side of the bed before overflowing onto the driveway.

The idea is that water flowing across the yard will get caught and fill the trench, getting a second chance to hydrate the higher side by the sidewalk and allowing the hugel bed to store as much as possible. 

4/17/13

With heavy rains the next day, we got to see it in action.  The overflow gently seeped onto the driveway through the rocks at several locations. 

4/17/13

4/20/13

We filled the trench completely, as tight as we could pack it, with all different types of wood.  All different varieties in different stages of rot.  Every size, from big logs to tiny twigs, where ever we could jam them in.

4/20/13

4/24/13

When we couldn't fit any more wood in, we covered it all with a couple layers of well rotted wood chips, then put the sod back on upside down.

4/29/13

4/30/13

5/4/13

And here it is finished and ready for planting.  We topped it off with some mushroom compost from River Valley Ranch.  This year it will be alternating tomatoes and peppers every few feet with carrots, lettuce, flowers, and herbs scattered throughout.  Eventually the young Chicago hardy fig I picked up last year will go on the corner, but it is producing so nicely in it's pot on the porch I think I am going to leave it be for now.

So far we only have a few sacrificial plants put in, but with no frost on the forecast it is starting to look more and more like planting time.

DIY Outdoor Chicken Brooder / Broody Hen Box

 Note: This is an original design, and is still in the process of being tested.  Please read the notes at the end before committing to building this.

     I just finished building this brooder tractor for our new baby chicks.  It is 6' x 2' with an open bottom to allow them to forage.  With 12 square feet of interior space it can hold up to 24 young birds for their first 3 weeks, after which they will need larger accommodations.  It can hold a smaller number of birds for longer, but care needs to be taken as a couple of birds won't be able to huddle and maintain their heat well enough.  I also envision using it for a broody hen with a clutch.  For that I would keep it stationary and add bedding and clean as needed.  I added a small door on the front so she can take her babies out foraging.  The entire top opens as two large doors to allow easy access.  A 2x4 brace across the center works well as a place to hang the waterer.  Two handles extend from the front.  Moving the unit by the handles is made easier by the rounded corners on the back of the bottom rails.  The plywood lid has a slight pitch to shed water since it acts as a roof over the enclosed section.  An incandescent light fixture provides heat inside the enclosure.  We cover the entire thing with a tarp if it get's too cold or wet out, and put down a layer of dry wood chips if the ground gets too moist. 

Tools Needed:

Tape Measure

Pencil

Square

Horses

Saw (For  cross cutting lumber and for ripping plywood)

Drill / Driver

Tin Snips (For cutting hardware cloth)

Belt Sander, plane, or draw knife (for shaping handles)
Belt Sander, jig saw, or coping saw (for rounding back of bottom rails)

Palm sander or sanding block (recommended for removing splinters and improving appearance)

A pneumatic staple gun is a nice option for attaching the walls and screen but screws work just as well.

Shopping List:

(Use this list to purchase materials new)

Prices are given for example only and are our current local prices for these items.

Qty     Type                                                                                     Price each                           Total
(10)        2x2" x8'                                                                                  $1.42                           $14.20
(3)          2x4" x 8'                                                                                 $2.98                            $8.94
(2)          4'x8' x 3/8" plywood                                                             $14.37                          $28.74
(56)        2½" Wood Screws                                                                                    Box of 100 $5.19

(44)        1¼" Wood Screws (or staples to secure plywood)                                   Box of 100 $3.28
(75) short (1" or so) flat head screws or staples to secure screen                           Box of 100 $2.37

(3) latches                                                                                            $1.79                              $5.37
(6) small hinges with screws                                                               $1.48                              $8.88
1/4" Hardware Cloth  12' long                                                                                25' Roll     $16.49
2' piece of light chain                                                                                                                   $.99
                                                                                                                                             __________
                                                                  Total for all new materials as pictured above        $94.45

Note: 

In the pic below, you can see how close I was to getting all of the pieces out of a single sheet of plywood.  Making the length of the side walls, the lid, or the width of the entire unit smaller by a couple of inches are all adjustments that would make it possible to eliminate the need for a second sheet of plywood.  Since I built mine before realizing this, and I am not terribly motivated to re-draw and re-work all the pics and lists, I am going to publish it as is.  If there is enough interest I can work up a slightly less expensive version.

The pieces are shown in grey, tan is scrap, and red is the overlap that prevents the pieces from coming out of 1 sheet. 

oops.  Now you gotta buy two whole sheets of plywood so you can cut one little piece out of one of them.  1/2 sheets are available, but they are only a couple of dollars cheaper than the whole ones.

Cut List:

(Use this list if scrounging/salvaging materials or to cut the purchased list)

Qty    Type

(2)     2x2" x 6' 6"     Bottom Rails
(5)     2x4" x 2'         Bottom Ends, Top Ends, & Top Bar
(1)     2x2  x 2'         Door frame Top
(2)     2x2  x 8'         Top Rails
(6)     2x4 x 21"       Corner Posts, Short wall stop, & Long wall Stop

(1)     2x2 x 21"       Side Cleat
(1)     2x2 x 1'          Door Jamb
(4)     2x2 x 2' 3"     Top Door Sweeps & Screen Lid Sides
(1)    2x2  x 2' 7¼"  Top Door Stop
(4)    2x2  x 2' 10½" Lid Frame
(2)    2x4  x 2' 7"     Screen Lid End

(6)  3/8" plywood pieces as shown below (click to view larger)

Short Side Wall:  2' tall, 2' across top, 2' 4½" across bottom

Front Wall:  1' 9" Tall, 2' 2½" across top with cut out 1' up and 9½" over

Back Wall: 2'3"x1'9"

Lid:  3' 1½" x 2' 10½" 

Long Side Wall:  2' tall, 3' 1½" across top, 3' 6" across bottom

Chicken Door:  11 7/8"x7 7/8"

Step 1:  Assemble the bottom frame

Round off back corners of the (2) bottom rails with a belt sander, jig saw, or coping saw to allow the unit to slide more easily when assembled.  Then assemble the bottom frame as shown below. 

Attach the Bottom Rails (2x2x6'6") to the Bottom Ends (2x4x2') The Front End is flush, the Back end is 6" in from the rounded corner. 

 Use (2) 2½" screws per connection.  Be sure to keep the screws offset toward the center on both ends, as shown below, to avoid hitting the screws that secure the corners in step 2.  Pre-drill the 2x2 to avoid splitting.

Step 2:  Attach the 4 corner posts

Attach the (4) Corner Posts (2x2x21") to the Bottom frame assembly using (1) 2½" screw per connection as shown below.  Pre-drill these connections.

Step 3:  Assemble the Top Frame

Attach the (2) Top Rails (2x2x8') to the (2) Top Ends (2x4x2') as shown below.  Use (2) 2½" screws to secure each side of the Back end flush with the rails.  The screws should be offset towards the center as in step 1.

Use (1) 2½" screws to attach each side of the Front End.  It is positioned 5' 10½" from the back end and installed sideways to hang down below the frame as shown below.

I rounded the handles with a belt sander before assembling the top frame.

Step 4:  Connect the top and bottom frames.

Use (4) 2½" screws to attach the Top Frame to the (4) Corner Posts as shown below.

Screw placement detail

Step 5:  Attach the Short Side Stop and the Side Cleat

Attach the Short Side Cleat (2x4x21")  1' 10½" from the back corner as shown below.  The Side Cleat (2x2x21") is attached the same distance on the other side.  Use (1) 2 ½" screw for each of the (4) connections.

Step 6:  Attach the Top Bar

Install the Top Bar (2x4x2') 2' 11½" from the back of the unit using (2) 2½" screws on each side as shown below.

Step 7:  Attach the Long Side Stop

Install the Long Side Stop (2x4x21") 2' 11½" from the back of the unit (flush with Top Bar) as shown below.  Use (1) 2½" screw on each end, centered to avoid hitting the Top Bar screws.

Step 8:  Assemble Door Frame

Attach the Door Jamb (2x2x1') to the Door Frame Top (2x2x2').  It is installed 8" from the side in a T shape as shown below.  Use (1) 2½" screw for this connection.

Step 9:  Install Door Frame

Install the Door Frame in the front end as shown below.  Use (1) 2½"screw for each of the (3) connections.

Step 10:  Install the first Top Door Sweep

Attach the Top Door Sweep (2x2x2'3") 1 5/8" from the Back end using (3) 2½" screws as shown below.

Step 11:  Install Top Door Stop

Attach the Top Door Stop (2x2x2' 7¼") to the Top Rail on the Short side using (3) 2½" screws as shown below.

Step 12:  Install other Top Door Sweep

Attach the other Top Door Sweep (2x2x2'3") tight against the Top Door Stop using (2) 2½" screws as shown below.  To keep it square, measure the distance of the stop (2' 7¼") on the back rail

The completed frame.

 

Note:

 Because I prefer not to use treated wood it is necessary to use a preservative to protect the pine from rot and make it a less hospitable home to mites.  For this project I used a homemade past created with 5 parts food grade mineral oil and 1 part beeswax.  The ingredients are gently heated using a double boiler until blended.  Monitor closely at all times under heat since both ingredients can be flammable.  The mixture is then cooled to room temp, then applied to the wood with a rag. 

I applied my mixture to the completed frame, then treated each piece of plywood before attaching.

Step 13:  Install Front Wall

 Install the Front Wall to the Short Wall Stop and the Side Cleat using (5) 1¼" screws as shown below.  When attaching plywood to framing, you do not need to pre-drill.

Step 14:  Install Long Side Wall

Attach the Long Side Wall using (10) 1¼" screws as shown below.

Step 15:  Install Short Side Wall

Attach the Short Side Wall using (10) 1¼" screws as shown below.

Step 16:  Install the Back Wall

Attach the Back Wall (1'9"x2'3"x 3/8" ply) to the inside of the back corners using (6) 1¼" screws as shown below.

Step 17:  Attach screen to the Outside of the brooder.  

Attach the ¼" Hardware Cloth to the brooder using either pan head screws or a pneumatic stapler.  Wrap the 3 open sides with a single piece of screen, cutting out for the chicken door and handles on the front side, folding it around the corners, and then cutting to length.

shown here a couple of steps ahead with screen as well as with the lid and the screen top frame attached.

Step 18:  Build the Lid Frame

Attach (2) Lid Frame pieces to the other (2) Lid Frame Pieces to form a large H as shown below.  The inner pieces are set in 3" from the ends of the other pieces.  Use (1) 2½" screw for each of the (4) connections.

Step 19:  Attach Lid Top to Lid Frame.

Connect the Lid Top (3' 1½"x2' 10½" x 3/8" ply) to the Lid Frame using (10) 1¼"screws.

Step 20:  Attach the Lid

Install the Lid to the Brooder as shown below using 2 hinges and the appropriate screws.

The hinges for the screen top (Left) are installed flat, the hinges for the wooden top (right) are installed at 90°

Step 21:  Build Screen Top

Attach (2) Screen lid Ends (2x4x2'7") to (2) Screen Lid Sides (2x2x2'3") to form a square with the 2x2s covering the ends of the 2x4s.  Use (2) 2½"screws for each of the (4) connections as shown below. 

 Cover with ¼" Hardware Cloth.

Step 22:  Install Screen Top 

Attach Screen Top using (2) hinges with appropriate screws.

Step 23:  Install Chicken Door

Attach Chicken Door using (2) small hinges with appropriate screws.

Step 24:  Install the latches and the chain.

I use eye and hook latches with a spring mechanism that prevents it from being easily opened.

The chain is installed using (2) 1¼" screws as shown below to keep the screen door from opening too far.

If needed you can install an incandescent light or other heat source inside the brooder.  Be sure to follow your local electrical codes.  A hook in the Top Bar is a great place to hang a waterer from.

     So that's pretty much it.  We used a similar type thing to brood our original flock with great success, but that was in July and August, so we will have to wait and see how they fare in the cooler, wetter Wisconsin Spring weather.  We cover the brooder with a tarp in heavy rains, but otherwise it provides all the protection the chicks need.  We move them to fresh lawn daily.  For the first couple of moves, it is a good idea to have someone watch so they don't get their toes caught.  Also, talk to your birds when you are going to move them, so they get to know what to expect.  Personally I think it is much better for the birds to be outside right away.  To expose them to the fresh air, forge opportunities, and potential pathogens as soon as possible so they can develop on the right track.

Happy flockstering, and please let me know what you think of the design.

Update 5/19/13:

Things I want to change about the design so far:

1. Adjust size so that it can be built out of 1 sheet of plywood.

2.  Put the handles on the opposite side.  All the babies run away from us when we open it up to move.  This puts them in the brooder where we can't see them and they tend to get their toes run over.  So we end up moving it by pushing the brooder wall which scares the babies out into the yard where we can see them.  Makes me wonder if the handles are necessary at all.

3.  Add a small door that babies can fit through but adult chickens can't for introducing young birds into the flock (A thought I had after reading this article on the Natural Chicken Keeping Blog.

Update 6/24/13:  

The adult birds don't show any signs of wanting to use it in any way except perching on the handles.  I think if we want a broody hen to use it, we would have to lock her in there.  I worry that it is too hot and there is not enough ventilation for that though.  Worked great as a brooder, but I am re-thinking the broody hen application.

I guess from this angle, it doesn't look too inviting.

New Chicks!

     Ok, so we are a little crazy, but we actually agreed to take the chicks months ago.  Hatching them was a 5th grade class project for the son of a good friend and they needed a home.  So here we are with 21 baby leghorns added to the flock.  Not too sure how this is going to work yet, but they sure are cute!

 

     We are brooding them in a large box indoors for now, but I will be working on building a brooder tractor/broody hen pen this weekend so we can get them foraging right away.  If the build goes well, I will be posting the plans soon.

Chicken Update 4/25/13

     There has been quite a bit to talk about concerning chickens, but it has been hard to find time to post now that Spring has sprung.  For starters two out of our three cockerels went into the cooking pot a few weeks ago which resulted in a lovely chicken dinner with some friends.  They were pretty birds, but three cocks is simply too many for a flock our size, and I don't like feeding birds that don't produce.  It has definitely been quieter around here since then.

Winter hoop coop  setup

     Last Saturday, the 20th, was moving day.  We repositioned the coop and netting into the first paddock area for the combination food forest/chicken paddock that I am envisioning for our back yard.  It was a lot of work, cleaning out a winters worth of deep bedding, moving all the straw bales, putting the wheels back on the hoop coop, and then moving everything into position.  Since the new paddock includes part of the yard I set them up in for Winter, we were able to move the coop on Saturday, then move the fencing Sunday morning before releasing the birds for the day.

     Under the outer tarp, we found a few hidden nests with 20 some eggs that we didn't know about.  We mixed them with some wood chips in the compost pile since we didn't know how old they were.

     With the hoop coop up on some saw horses, I put the wheels on...

while Nikki used a stiff brush to clean the old litter off the wire mesh.

     Here is a closer look at what I am calling our lever up wheel assembly.  It is made from commonly available hardware.

     The two wheel assemblies attach to the front corners of the 2x4 frame with 3 heavy duty wood screws, one on the side and two on the bottom.  A lynchpin is used to lock the wheels in the up position.

     This is the custom hitch that goes on the front of the hoop coop, allowing us to use a trailer dolly to easily move it around the yard.  It is attached to the bottom of the 2x4 frame with 4 lag bolts.  Please don't laugh at all the grinder marks, this is the first useful thing I ever made on a welder.  It's also quite a bit heavier duty than it needs to be, but the c channel scrap I had available just happened to fit the hitch, so I went with it.  It is made in 2 pieces bolted together so the height could be adjusted if needed. 

     Above is the new paddock.  There are still a few weeks until the last frost in this area, so we moved some bails in as well.  Since the winter setup used the barn wall for one side, it was quite a bit bigger than what one 164' poultry netting can encompass.  The chickens are less than thrilled with their new, smaller accommodations so far.  They have gotten out several times this week.  It started with a few birds flying over on Monday from the top of bales that were placed too close to the fence.  On Tuesday, it rained and one of the stakes in the soft sandy gravel driveway fell over.  I came home from work to find the entire flock, soaking wet and happily turning the straw left over from the winter setup.  Wednesday I found the one cockerel and two hens had flown out and torn out the peas I planted in the back lasagna beds.  I was able to pick up the hens without too much fuss, but the rooster was too wary.  After about five or six laps running around the netting while swearing loudly, I wondered if the neighbors were watching and decided to change tactics.  All I had to do was move one end stake inward so it made a spiral instead of a circle, then do one more lap and chase him in the pen.  The rest of the flock was nervous about the commotion and stayed inside, so I didn't have to worry about the opening in the fencing.  My threats and angry noises must have had some effect, because he stayed inside for the rest of the day.  Today, of course, he was out again; along with one of the Rhode Island Red hens.  Ok, make that twice today.  Sigh.   Looks like we are going to have to electrify the netting after all.  If that doesn't work we will try clipping wings on the offenders.  I may end up caging off the garden as well, though I hate the inconvenience of it and, other that the chickens, we don't really have problems with foragers. (knock on wood)